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Fangking Omega December 16th, 2004 9:32 AM

Fake Card Tutorials
This tutorial is specifically tailored for the recent Hidden Legends style, the current style used in the US cards, and specifically the Zeo blanks edited by me. Other blanks may be different sizes and will need different fonts. However, it should be suitable for older styles of ADV I made if you fix up certain things, but Hidden Legends look a LOT better than anything previous (IMO). This tutorial also is specifically for Photoshop users, but some elements can be implied with other programs.

I am not saying that this is the ONLY and ABSOLUTE way to go about your cards, but it's very accurate and much of it is based around research I made into the advancey world.

First, you need the blanks, symbols and fonts! This should be obvious :P
Symbols and blanks are both available from the bottom of this post.

If you are on Photoshop, open the character and paragraph toolbars (go to the Window menu and select Show Character and Show Paragraph if you don?t know how to). These allow you to condense text and justify when necessary. Also, the layers toolbar helps in a big way. If you aren?t on Photoshop, ignore this step. Now, let?s go!

Top parts

We?ll start with the name. I use Gill Sans Condensed Bold, size 25 at 100% width. Place it 1 pixel to the right of the left edge of the silver image border, and five pixels above it. Simple. If you?re doing a Magma vs. Aqua or a VS (gym leader) style thing, I use size 12.5, unconfirmed but accurate nonetheless. If you?re on a program that doesn?t allow decimals, just use 13). The forenames should be in this size and completely capitalized (eg. TEAM AQUA?S Spheal). Go back to size 25 for the normal name of course ;)

HP next. This is Futura LT Medium Bold, size 19, still at 100% width. Have it 5 pixels to the left of the edge of the type symbol, and 5 pixels above the silver image border. Couldn?t be easier ^_^

Illus is Futura LT Medium Italic at size 7, 100% width. 5 pixels left of the INNER left edge of the image border. Have it just about vertically central with the bar, just until it looks correct. Make sure that the illus gives credit to the actual artist ;)

Attack area
Great. I hate this bit.

Powers/bodies first.

Please note there are some CHANGES

For basics, have the power/body symbol on the first row of full circles, vertically central with the rows above and below (the one above is half circles). The left edge of the symbol should be central between the first and second circles on the row. The power/body name goes 20 pixels to the right of the symbol, and it is Gill Sans Condensed Bold, size 19.2 (that precise, yes, but 19 will suffice) at 89% width (use the character toolbar to set width on Photoshop, otherwise skip the condensing unless you have another way). Use the appropriate shade of red or green.

Please note that in newer sets, they have reduced the distance between Power/Body name on Basics from 20 pixels to 10 PIXELS. Adjust to this if you want to follow the very newest trends. Thanks to Lunanai for pointing this out, and see Page 3 of this thread.

For evolutions, do everything the same, except that the left edge of the power/body symbol is instead central between the second and third circles and the name is 10 pixels to the right of the symbol.

If the card has an ex/dual type/shining rule or other, leave a row of circles but leave everything else the same as for a basic.

Now, for the effect of this power (this also applies to attack effects). This is where things get complicated. Draw a text box with the text tool (drag instead of click) so that each margin is 10 pixels from the edge of the light colored box. It should start on the topmost part of the first row of circles underneath the power/body or the attack and cost. Use the JUSTIFY command on the paragraph toolbar. This makes the text line up with both margins by increasing or decreasing the distance between spaces (This feature is limited to Photoshop users, it does not work on elements). For the text itself, use Gill Sans regular/roman at any size between 10 and 17, with 96% width. Go smaller if you really need to, but people might have trouble reading. Use the largest size allowable for the effect?s content. If you have more than one attack/power/body with an effect box, the same size MUST be used on each occasion.
NOTE! This is now incorrect! 96% width needed. Feh.

Now for attacks. Energy symbols first.

For 1 Energy cost attacks, have the symbol central on the second circle of the row. EG;

e-O-e-e-e (where O = the energy symbol and e = the empty circles).

From then on (attacks with 2 Energy cost or more), you go from the first circle.


Quite easy. Keep the symbols central, and they should all be the same distance apart!

For the attack name (Gill Sans Condensed Bold, size 23, 89% width), if you have a cost of 1 to 3 Energy for this attack, have the leftmost edge of the attack name 5 pixels right from the left edge of the fourth circle. For 4 Energy attacks, have it 5 pixels right from the left edge of the fifth circle. For 5 Energy attacks, put it 8 pixels right of the last symbol of the cost. Either way, it is always 1 pixel up from the bottom edge of the symbols.

Attack damage is Gill Sans Regular/Roman size 23 at 89% width. It is 10 pixels away from the right edge of the light colored box. The bottom of the damage always lines up with the bottom of the attack name. If you have + or x, + is size 12 Gill Sans Condensed Bold at 100% width, lines up with the bottom of the attack damage and is central in the 10 pixel space between the damage and the right of the box. As for x, the placement is the same, but it is size 12 Gill Sans Regular/Roman at 100% width.

Go back to the previous lickle bit if you still need to know how to do attack effects.

Shift the attacks around so that they look correct, and there is a sort of an even amount of space between them and the top and bottom of the light box. It can?t be EXACT, but it looks better if there is a similar amount of space.

Congratulations! You have finished the attacks!

But it?s not over yet! Darn. The bottom part is yet to do.

Weakness; situate the symbol central to the word, 1 pixel below it. The left and right edges of the symbol should be halfway between each ?e? in Weakness. If you have 2 Weaknesses, have both symbols 1 pixel apart, keeping them central with the word. Exact positions are unconfirmed and I?m too lazy to do so.

Resistance; if your card has it, lay down the -30 first. It is Gill Sans Condensed Bold size 8 at 89% width. Have it 3 pixels right of the last ?e? of Resistance. Next, put the symbol central with the word and -30, as though they were 1 word. The symbol should start roughly where the ?t? begins. 1 pixel down. Again, 2 Resistance?s exact positions are unconfirmed, but put them central again.

Retreat cost; simple, 1 pixel down, keep it central. No further elaboration. Go away.

Actually, stay. I have the very bottom parts yet to do.

We?ll start with the rarity symbol. It goes 20 pixels to the left of the INNER right side of the border (quite easy). Keep the bottom of it in line with the Nintendo/Pok魯n copyright. Next is the card?s number. It is Futura LT Medium Bold Italic, size 7, 100% width. Again, keep it vertically aligned with the copyright, and have it roughly 3 pixels left of the rarity symbol.

Finally, the 9 digit ID. I tend to make up anything here. Futura LT Medium Regular at size 7, 100% width. Dump it 3 pixels left of the left edge of the Weakness ?swirl,? and keep it vertical with the copyright again. Easy.

You?ve made a card. Yay!

Other things;

Evolutions are laid out exactly the same as basics except the powers/bodies. Also, they have the ?evolves from? text. This is Gill Sans Bold Italic size 8 at 100% width, and only ever says ?Evolves from (Pok魯n)?. They scrapped the ?Put the Stage 1/2 on the Basic/Stage 1 card? text. Slap it 8 pixels from the bottom corner of the little box that says ?Stage 1/2? and 2 pixels down from the Illus. bar.

Pok魯n-ex are quite easy to sort. Same as basics, but you just put the ex symbol 10 pixels right of the name.

In fact, the same goes for the Shining Pok魯n and their symbol, but pull that down 1 pixel so that it is 4 pixels away from the silver image border instead of 5.

ok, I believe I?ve covered everything now. I hope that this is comprehendible enough for anyone to use ^_^

If you like, use Humanist in place of Gill Sans. Gill Sans is more precise here though. Contact me if you need the fonts, but please do a google search first -_-

I can suggest bookmarking this topic or something ridiculous like that, since it will come in very useful if you're using hidden legends.

Now for blanks and stuff! PLEASE only download what you need rather than everything in sight. This saves a lot of bandwidth issues. A move to a new and much more reliable server is currently being negotiated ;)

Fake Card Materials can be found Here

Not everything is up yet, but most of it is.


ravenstorture December 16th, 2004 9:44 AM


I will leave this open if anyone has any questions.

Ivar December 16th, 2004 10:29 AM

The HOLOSHEET Tutorial!
This kinda tutorial is based on the standalone Holosheet that can be used on an image that has a background already.

To teach you how to use a holosheet, I first need to know if you have Photoshop. If so, I'll explain.

First of, select all of the blank.

Then pick a selection tool (retangle by basic Pokmon) and click on the 'Substract from selection' button.

Select the white part in the border (where the illus. should come). Now you should see that the blank is totally selected, except for the white part.

Right-click on the blank and choose 'Layer via Cut'. The blank (without the white part) is now the upper layer.

Open your Pokmon image and resize it until it fits (check 'Constrain proportions' or something, in the 'Image Size' section under 'Image')
Then type for the width '325 pixels'. That would fit mostly.

Now, select the image by right-clicking it with the Pan-tool. Select the Layer that is the Image, most likely it will say 'Background' and 'Layer 2'. Choose 'Layer 2'.

Now, select the part of the Pokmon in the image with the Lasso-tool or polygonaial (something like that) or eventually, in a very clear image, the 'Magnetic Lasso'-tool.

After selecting that part (the Pokmon) there should appear a rotating accented line around it.

Right-click it and choose 'Layer via Cut'.
-----Almost finished....

Open the Standalone Holosheet

Press Ctrl+A and the whole Holosheet should be selected. Then Press Ctrl+C to copy it.

Go to the Pokmon fake card and select the Pan-tool. Rightclick on the image around the pokmon. Select 'Layer 2' (or the one other than 'Background'.

Press Ctrl+V. The Pokmon should be visible now, but the background of the Pokmon not.

Go to 'Layers'. Select the Holosheet layer (mostly Layer 4).

Go to the 'Layer'-Menu and select 'Duplicate Layer...' and choose the file of the Pokmon card on which the holosheet should be attached and press OK.

Select the upper holo-layer (Layer 4 copy or so) and set the box with 'Normal' in it to 'Multiply'.
Set the Opacity to 25%-30%.

Now select the rear holo-layer and set the 'Normal'-part to 'Color Dodge'.
Set the opacity to an amount between 80% and 100%, whatever fits the best.

Now you've attached a holosheet!!!!!

Thanks for the suggestions to Fangking Omega and King Shuckle!

Fangking Omega December 16th, 2004 11:11 AM

Trainer Tutorial Extraordinaire
Fang is known for his Hidden Legends tutorial. Fang was asked to make a Trainer tutorial to go with it. Fang did.

It has been a joint effort between Zeo's Elite 4 Master and myself to create this wonderful guide towards making the perfect Advance Trainer card. This tutorial IS adapted for Photoshop (and generally versions 6.0+) as usual, but any program with width altering prowess is acceptable.

Opening notes; fonts used are instead Humanist instead of the usual Gill Sans. Humanist is easily obtainable from Pokemon Zeos main page in the accessories section and (I found) it is more adaptable to Trainer cards than Gill Sans due to some sizing issues. Gill Sans would be acceptable, but a lot of the widths would be different, so I suggest the use of Humanist in this case.

I've been a bit minimalist on images because this is relatively easier than a Pokmon card.

Setting width is as usual for Photoshop users. Go to the Window menu, select Show Character and use the box to set width.

Setting justification is something of an irritation to many, but again I will explain how to do it. First, draw a text box by dragging the Text tool rather than just clicking. Then, go to the Window menu, select Show Paragraph and use THIS button;

Figure 0

After that, type away. Dont ever use the return key. Ever.

We shall start as usual with the trainers name. The font to use is Humanist Condensed Bold at a wonderful size 22, and the width is a curious 102%. To align it, look at the dark grey edge of the image border (a thin strip that progressively gets narrower). It goes 3 pixels from the RIGHT edge of this, and goes 4 pixels above the top edge of the image border.

Figure 1

Then we can do the Trainer type. Is it a Supporter, Pokmon Tool, Stadium, Technical Machine or Rockets Secret Machine? If it is just a standard trainer, skip this section.

This time, the font is Humanist Italic, size 14 at 104% width. It goes 6 pixels up from the top of the light grey box, it isnt QUITE aligned with the circles. At the right side, get it so the bottom right of the text is in line with the top right corner of the very same light box. See Fig 1 again.

Now onto my least favourite part; the trainer effect and ruling box. Horizontally, draw the text box so there are margins of 27 pixels on either side. Vertically, it is exactly central so determine this once youve typed out the effect/rule. Apply JUSTIFICATION, explained earlier.

Figure 2

For a specific ruling, the font size is very fussy. Humanist Regular/Roman size 12.45 at 95% width. Line Spacing (determined on the character box, usually above the width setting) should be size 13.

The rulings are here, courtesy of E4M

This card stays in play when you play it. Discard this card if another Stadium card comes into play.

You can play only 1 Supporter card each turn. When you play this card, put it next to your Active Pokmon. When your turn ends, discard this card.

Pokmon Tool
Attach (Pokmon Tool Name) to 1 of your Pokmon that doesnt already have a Pokmon Tool attached to it. If that Pokmon is Knocked Out, discard this card.

Technical Machine
Attach this card to 1 of your Evolved Pokmon (excluding Pokmon-ex and Pokmon that has an owner in its name) in play. That Pokmon may use this cards attack instead of its own. At then end of your turn, discard (name of Technical Machine).

Rockets Secret Machine
No special ruling


Now move onto your trainers effect. It can really be any size up to size 16, Humanist Roman/Regular, 95% width, line spacing set to 1 size greater than the size of the font. Shrink the font size accordingly.

(E4Ms little bit) The Illus. is just like in a Pokmon card. Futura LT Medium Italic at size 7, 100% width is normal, but on a Trainer card, the Illus. is lined up with the white box where the Trainer description goes. The Illus. line is 3 pixels from the top of the Trainer description box, and now you have given the illustrator credit! KthxE4M.

The rest is very similar to a standard Pokmon card, thus no images.

(E4Ms little bit) Rarity symbol is 20 pixels to the left of the inside of the right side of the border and keep it lined up with the Nintendo/Pokmon Copyright text. The card for the set number is just like the Illus; Futura LT Medium Bold Italic, size 7, 100% width. Just like the rarity symbol, keep it on the same level as the Nintendo/Pokmon line and it goes 3 pixels left of the rarity symbol. KthxE4M

The 9 digit ID is Futura LT Medium Regular, size 7, 100% width. It goes 5 pixels right from the bottom left corner of the description box, kept vertically level with the copyright.

Job done OMM!

I believe we have covered everything needed for a perfect trainer. If youre using Classic Advance (which is less used these days) then only the 9 digit ID and set symbol should change location, but they are relatively similar. Use HL, its easier =P

If you have any questions, feel free to contact me via PM, email, or any other methods deemed necessary. Carrier Pigeons are not my favourite things.

Fangking Omega December 16th, 2004 11:50 AM

For clarification, I use the following;

After putting on the holo, I duplicate it so there are two holo layers.

Rear holo layer - multiply mode - opacity 25 percent
Front holo layer - color dodge mode - opacity 80 percent

If you don't know how to get to the layers command to edit mode and opacity on Photoshop, go to the Window menu and select "show layers".

Thanks Ivar, very useful ^_^

Shadow December 16th, 2004 3:49 PM

Very useful your tutorials are indeed Fangking, so a sticky it shall be.

Shadow December 16th, 2004 3:50 PM

Yes, very useful. Another stickied tutorial for our Fake Card forum to have.

Shadow December 16th, 2004 3:52 PM

Fang, I have a question. Are you going to make the Rocket's Pokemon blanks (EX or not) from Team Rocket's Revenge?

Fangking Omega December 17th, 2004 5:49 AM

I'm so brilliant that they're here. Never actually saw a release on the old server due to running out of spaceness. Notice that this is a temporary directory since the server move is being negotiatified, and is likely to go ahead soon.

Shadow December 17th, 2004 6:35 AM


Originally Posted by Fangking Omega
I'm so brilliant that they're here. Never actually saw a release on the old server due to running out of spaceness. Notice that this is a temporary directory since the server move is being negotiatified, and is likely to go ahead soon.

Yay! TRR Blanks! Thank you oh great lord of Hidden Legends faking. Where would faking be without you? =p

ravenstorture December 17th, 2004 2:20 PM

Yeah, I change the opacity like Fangking for my halos, but I'm sure your method is just as good. ^^

Gokey Shuckle January 21st, 2005 5:51 PM

This tutorial is awesome! Now I can finally make Trainer cards! Thanx! *Creates Jade Gem*

Ash_Pokemaster January 22nd, 2005 10:11 PM

Well, I can't see blanks. It says that I must pay to get to @syfen2 domain... Is anyone can upload a zip or something? Or anyway put another site for Blanks?

Gokey Shuckle January 22nd, 2005 10:17 PM

Pokemon Palace has can go there....

Fangking Omega February 10th, 2005 12:20 PM

Yeah, for anyone who used the old server it's now gone. I'll need to send some final blanks to Steve (unfortunately, they're the biggest set and it's not much fun to send by 56k; it's basically travelling by telephone.)

Please be patient, they'll show up EVENTUALLY...

Oh, and I forgot to mention that I'm actually retired from faking....

Soul Reaper March 19th, 2005 1:57 PM

i have a question, why does the links not work?

ravenstorture March 19th, 2005 7:42 PM

Because they aren't hosted anymore. I will talk with Shuckle about that.

Gokey Shuckle March 20th, 2005 9:18 AM

Okay, there is a new link up there. Click on "Here" to get to it. Not all the blanks are up yet, but most of them are. Have fun.

Aggron_Tamer April 8th, 2005 9:03 AM

How do you get gill sans condensed?

Shadow April 8th, 2005 11:03 AM


Originally Posted by Aggron_Tamer
How do you get gill sans condensed?

Check the attachment in this post:

Aggron_Tamer April 8th, 2005 11:28 AM


Originally Posted by Shadow

Check the attachment in this post:

Yeah, I realised where it was, it didn't get put into the fonts folder when I pasted them in for some strange reason.

Gokey Shuckle May 6th, 2005 3:22 PM

I had to rename this thread because people were claiming that there was no tutorial @.@

Kronos May 15th, 2005 3:34 PM

Does anyone know where i can get the fonts...?

Datriot July 9th, 2005 4:27 AM

This a great tutorial Fangking Omega, I'm gonna start creating fake cards now, thanks!

QFred November 20th, 2005 1:17 PM

Evolution Icon Placement Tutorial
This tutorial is for fakers that have some problems at placing the evolution icon. It's designed for Photoshop (version 6 up, I believe), but I'm very sure it also works on Paint Shop Pro...

For it you'll need a Pic, a Stage 1 or 2 blank and the Evo Icons, d'uh!

First, select this tool, the Eliptical Marquee

Second, make an elipse around the evo icon placer, with a good leap (sp?)!

Third, go to Layer > New > Layer From Background

Fourth, with the Square/Rectangle Marquee Tool, on Layer 0 (the one that was your Background), take the white part where is suppose to place the pic!

Fifth, deselect, it will make things easer, I assure you!

Sixth, place the Evo Icon, above the Layer 1.

Seventh, zoom at 500% and select the Eliptical Marquee. Make a rigorous circle. Inverse the selection.

You will end with some thing like this, but using the details you prefer (pic, blank, evo icon, d'uh!).

Using that as a beginning you can make better Stage 1 or 2 Pokmon cards!

Hope you like it and use it!

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