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Custom Cards For your creations of cards made on your own, post them here and show your great creativity and moves! See what Pokémon or little hilarious thing you concoct with the TCG base-sets obtainable here and other places.

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  #101    
Old February 11th, 2014 (12:38 PM).
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Modified the top bit of my Dark Trainer card template to read "Team Rocket." I might update my Rocket's Crest card to do the same.
Love these Team Rocket cards haha!
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  #102    
Old February 24th, 2014 (8:05 PM). Edited February 25th, 2014 by icycatelf.
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Love these Team Rocket cards haha!
I'm glad you like them!

UPDATE: So, cscdgnpry @deviantART (better known as Cascade Gonpory) made some BEAUTIFUL new blanks for his Vs2: Uniting the World project, so I just had to use them! Sorry for reusing my older artwork (I haven't drawn anything new in forever).





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  #103    
Old February 24th, 2014 (8:56 PM).
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I... I... have no words to describe how enchanting those are. well, actually, I do, but it's not PG-13 terminology
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  #104    
Old March 17th, 2014 (6:52 AM). Edited March 17th, 2014 by icycatelf.
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UPDATE: It would seem that I'm on an Unown spree!



Alex's Unown 50 HP (P)

Pokémon Power: Art Block
As long as this Pokémon doesn't have any Energy cards attached to it, neither player can use effects that let them look through their deck.

(P)(C) Hidden Power 20

Weakness: Psychic
Resistance: None
Retreat Cost: 1

When alone, nothing happens. However, if there are two or more, an odd power is said to emerge.

Extra text: Custom Unown Pokémon card by KKN


EDIT: Here's KKN's Unown with updated artwork and the reveal clause added to the Pokémon Power.

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  #105    
Old March 23rd, 2014 (7:36 AM).
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UPDATE: I guess these work just as well here as they would in the pixel art forum. Here are some TCG GB-style interpretations of some of my fakes:









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  #106    
Old March 24th, 2014 (8:19 PM).
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Those are amazing! Font sort of bugs me a bit on the Eevee, one, though. Probably just my mind playing tricks on me.

Though we don't have a dedicated pixel art forum anymore. Got merged into the main A&D forum.
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  #107    
Old April 3rd, 2014 (6:03 AM).
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I personally like the Alex The Slowpoke Card you mad it look cute! :D
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  #108    
Old April 4th, 2014 (4:27 PM). Edited April 6th, 2014 by icycatelf.
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Originally Posted by donavannj View Post
Those are amazing! Font sort of bugs me a bit on the Eevee, one, though. Probably just my mind playing tricks on me.

Though we don't have a dedicated pixel art forum anymore. Got merged into the main A&D forum.
Thanks! The font on Eevee is the same as the rest, so I'm not sure what's wrong with it. The only thing that looks strange to me is the N in "KKN," bit that's present on the Blissey card as well. The only screencap I could find with that specific letter (in the larger font style) was really blurry, so mine may be inaccurate.

Ah, I didn't know that. I used to hang out there all the time.

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I personally like the Alex The Slowpoke Card you mad it look cute! :D
Thanks! I'm glad you like it.

I've actually changed my PokéSona since, though I've no idea when I'll make a card of it. I'm a Luxio now.

- - -

UPDATE: Admit it. Mothim is the best moth.





Oh, I also made some TCG GB-style sprites of my older ice cream cat fakes:



EDIT: GB-style version of the Mothim (regular) card!

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  #109    
Old April 7th, 2014 (8:50 PM).
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mothim is not best moth. that belongs to butterfree



Also, the cats are adorable. Don't see anything that bugs me about this batch.
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  #110    
Old May 2nd, 2014 (10:01 AM).
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Butterfree isn't bad, but it isn't the best moth. No moth is better than Dunsparce-colored Mothim.

Thanks! I really need to do more with them (like make newer artwork). A part of me is tempted to make them Digimon instead.

Ha! Was that pun intended?

UPDATE: YOOOOOU~GII~YO IYO IYO IYO...



Remake of my older Chibi Kj'kun card (I think I posted that here). I recently found the official Japanese font, so I made it actually Japanese this time. I also added some new foil effects. I'm pretty happy with it.
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  #111    
Old May 2nd, 2014 (7:20 PM).
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I like them but on the Mewtwo I see the font looks right but doesn't blend in like the real card's Maybe work on that.
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  #112    
Old May 10th, 2014 (6:34 PM).
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Ah, these are all sooo PRETTAY. I think I follow you on deviantART already. c: But I have a question; do you actually print these? And if so, does the quality and feel of the paper and such you print them on actually imitate standard Pokemon cards? I'm curious. I might become involved in some creation of this fake card art if that's the case. (P.S. I still love those dang ice-cream cats<3)
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  #113    
Old June 18th, 2014 (5:50 AM). Edited June 18th, 2014 by icycatelf.
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I like them but on the Mewtwo I see the font looks right but doesn't blend in like the real card's Maybe work on that.
That's an issue with Photoshop's stroke rendering, it's too rounded and kind of fuzzy. I have a better method using GIMP, but I forgot to save it with layers. If I made it again, I'd have to build it again from scratch, including the texture/foil, which would take too long.

Quote:
Originally Posted by IceyPinkLemons View Post
Ah, these are all sooo PRETTAY. I think I follow you on deviantART already. c: But I have a question; do you actually print these? And if so, does the quality and feel of the paper and such you print them on actually imitate standard Pokemon cards? I'm curious. I might become involved in some creation of this fake card art if that's the case. (P.S. I still love those dang ice-cream cats<3)
Thanks!

Sorry for the late reply. I've printed a good chunk of my cards, but none of my recent ones (due to lack of ink and money). But no, they don't feel/look quite the same as real cards. I try to make most of them holo, which, with my method, makes them a bit too glossy/plasticy (like they're laminated). For non-holos, I've used card stock and photo paper in the past, but the card stock is a little too dull and the ink has a weird shine to it on photo paper. I once used someone else's printer (that used toner instead of ink) to print on some kind of semi-treated card stock and it turned out pretty similar to official cards (darker areas of toner reflect more light than the real cards, but still better than the other things I've tried).

Glad you like my ice cream cats! :D

- - -

UPDATE: I haven't been faking a lot lately. Anyway, here's a card that I've been planning to make for quite a while, ever since hatching a Shiny Meowth on Black 2 over a year ago. I hope to make an Alex's Shining Persian card as well eventually.



Non-Shiny/Gym TCG GB-style:



I actually based the sprite on a version of the card before the one above, but I changed the actual card because the older artwork was lineless and looked weird for a Shining Pokémon and the right eye was too deformed. Here's a link to the original: http://fav.me/d7msfzj
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  #114    
Old June 20th, 2014 (5:11 PM).
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Maybe it's just me, but I don't really see any difference between the eyes in the two versions of it.

I do like both styles, but I prefer the one with the holo background because it's hard to make out Meowth's details when Meowth is made holo instead of the background.
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  #115    
Old June 22nd, 2014 (5:46 AM). Edited June 25th, 2014 by icycatelf.
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Maybe it's just me, but I don't really see any difference between the eyes in the two versions of it.

I do like both styles, but I prefer the one with the holo background because it's hard to make out Meowth's details when Meowth is made holo instead of the background.
There isn't a huge difference. I just rounded the top part of the left eye a little more, bringing it slightly closer to the center of the head.

Yeah, I can see why you'd say that. I just personally think the foil on the Pokémon gives the card more of a Shining Pokémon feel, but the holographic background definitely makes the artwork clearer.

UPDATE: Here's a Japanese version of the card, made in both Shining styles:



Unlike English cards which just squish a long card name, the early Japanese cards had the top portion of the card expanded to fit the name and HP on two lines (not sure of any cases with the Neo-series cards, but I know I've seen some Dark and Gym cards like that), so I modified the template.

If it looks a little blurry, the forums probably scaled it down to fit the page width. In that case, click the image for actual, crisp size.

EDIT: Made some changes...

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  #116    
Old July 3rd, 2014 (8:30 PM).
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That Trainer card might have to get extremely wordy in explaining what can evolve into what. Maybe create ones that evolve 2 or 3 of the evolution lines to keep it from getting too wordy.
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  #117    
Old July 20th, 2014 (4:52 AM). Edited July 15th, 2016 by icycatelf.
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That Trainer card might have to get extremely wordy in explaining what can evolve into what. Maybe create ones that evolve 2 or 3 of the evolution lines to keep it from getting too wordy.
Maybe it would be easier to give the first forms Pokémon Powers that let them evolve, kind of like Baby Evolution from the DPPt sets:

Pokémon Power: Radiant Evolution
Once during your turn (before your attack), you may flip a coin. If heads, search your deck for an Alex's Shining Glaceon and put it on Alex's Shining Eevee (this counts as evolving Alex's Shining Eevee) and remove all damage counters from Alex's Shining Eevee. Shuffle your deck afterward.

I finally fixed the strokes on my FA Mewtwo. Took over a year to get around to it. =w=



Although the Mega mechanic has been revealed, I won't be updating this card as a Mega Pokémon.

EDIT: Removed the Shining Persian print because I'm not happy with the artwork.
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  #118    
Old July 29th, 2014 (8:23 PM).
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It looks pretty nice. What kind of printer are you using to print those?
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  #119    
Old July 30th, 2014 (8:56 AM). Edited July 30th, 2014 by icycatelf.
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I use an HP Deskjet F335, though one could use pretty much any type of color printer so long as the file to print is the right resolution (otherwise you'll have really pixelated/blurry text).

As for my foil cards, I print them on transparency film and adhere them to foil sheets. It's easier to make the whole card shiny, but not as realistic. What I do to make select areas of a card holographic is make a sort of stencil out of paper and put it between the foil and film sheet (factory printers use white ink for this step, but most at-home printers don't use white ink).
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  #120    
Old July 30th, 2014 (6:56 PM).
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That's actually pretty cool, but sounds quite expensive.

Also, the text is still hard to read on Mewtwo in a few spots, but I think we established last time that it was down to the foil pattern used and changing it to something more readable would fall out of line what is done on full-arts.
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  #121    
Old July 30th, 2014 (10:14 PM). Edited July 30th, 2014 by icycatelf.
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It is a little expensive, but more tedious than anything else. The most expensive part is the ink. A nice little craft for Pokémon TCG fans, though.

I may attempt to completely redo the Mewtwo card. I noticed earlier that I used "Defending Pokémon" instead of "opponent's Active Pokémon," so I should probably fix it. Not sure when I'll get around to it... took over a year to get around to that last edit. I just hope I remember to save it with layers next time.
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  #122    
Old August 21st, 2014 (4:37 AM). Edited July 15th, 2016 by icycatelf.
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UPDATE: Shining Lapras! (I borrowed the waves in the artwork from Surfing Pikachu because I fail at drawing water.)



Also in Japanese!

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  #123    
Old August 23rd, 2014 (8:13 PM). Edited August 23rd, 2014 by icycatelf.
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UPDATE: Printed versions!



^Though the foil I used probably wasn't the best choice, I'm really happy with this one.



^Not very realistic, but I was going for the look of the old quarter machine sticker cards on this one. I'm a little bummed that I slipped up and forgot to reapply the shading on it, but I think it still looks neat. It's a little smaller than standard cards because I used a bootleg Yu-Gi-Oh! card foil.

I also made an updated tutorial for printing custom cards, though it's just text right now. I'm thinking about printing off another sheet of film soon (after I make my next card), so I'll try to add pictures later.

Spoiler:
Part 1: Foil (strip those blankin' holos!)

The first thing you want to do if you're making holographic cards is to prepare some blank foils. You could buy foil sheets, holographic paper, or use a foil notebook cover you have laying around, but blank Pokémon foils are more convenient (especially if you want your cards to have the official backing).

To strip a card, dab a cloth in acetone or alcohol and lightly dampen the surface of the foil card. After a minute or so, start scrubbing the center of the card (with the same part of the cloth you dampened it with). Once you start seeing the silver shine though, start working your way outward. Try not to catch the edges with the cloth, else they might peel. Also, don't use too much strength, else you might rip the foil!

DP-series refractor foils (commonly called reverse-holos) are a lot easier to strip, though. All you need are a pair of tweezers or nail trimmers. Lightly brush a corner of the card with your finger or finger nail until it starts to peel (make sure the shiny part isn't peeling off the card, else you'll need to switch to another corner). Once you see the film separating from the foil, use tweezers or nail trimmers to grab hold of the film and pull if off the rest of the way.

Part 2: Card Resolution (how to make your text crystal clear)

This is the part that many fakers neglect. Many think that, once their card is done, merged, and posted for the world to see that their card can be printed nearly flawlessly at any time, so long as they knew the right settings. This isn't true, though. Even with the best printer settings, a merged card at standard faking size will ALWAYS be blurry or pixelated. Here's how to fix that.

First of all, make sure you save the PSD file (with layers) before merging your file to PNG for online sharing. This way, once you re-size the PSD, all the text will stay crisp. Go to Image > Image Size and change the Resolution from 72 (screen resolution) to 300 (print resolution). Next, change the Document Size to 2.4375" x 3.4375" (if Constrain Proportions is checked, these values may not match perfectly, but that's fine as long as they're no farther apart than 0.1") and click OK. Unfortunately, since it's a raster image, the blank and symbols still come out blurry (it will be less-noticeable in print, but still not perfect). You might want to Patch or Clone out the text on the blank (like WRRC) and type over it to make those parts clear. I think ShiningBill's BW PSD has clipping masks, so it should scale exceptionally well.

Afterward, go to Image > Canvas Size. With the Relative box checked, increase the height and width by 2 percent. Using the Eyedropper Tool, sample the card's border color. Paint over the rounded edges and blank space around the card to make the bleed. (Ignore the parts in italics if you're going to be mounting your card to a holographic sheet instead of a blank holographic card). After that, go to Image > Mode> CMYK Color. With the Type Tool, select the text boxes (one at a time) and change the color so that the K value in CMYK is 100 (by default, it's probably 90, which actually prints as more of a dark grey). After you have all your text recolored, save your file as something like "[pokemon name]_print.psd," then merge your layers. Save the file again, this time as something like "[pokemon name]_print_flat.png."

(Note: Remove any pre-applied digital foil effects before merging your layers!)

Why two files? The PSD is handy to keep in case you notice any problems (like typos) that you'd like to fix later. The PNG is needed because sometimes files with a lot of layers glitch upon printing and come out with weird lines or squares.

Part 3: Printing (paper type and quality)

(Note: It's best if you wait until you have four cards prepared and arrange them on an 8.5" x 11" page so you won't be wasting as many materials.)

This part strongly depends on what kind of printer you have and what kind of materials you are using. If you're wanting to print your card non-holo and have an ink-based printer, I suggest using glossy/photo paper. If you're using a toner-based printer, I suggest using card stock. Either way, you're not going to get quite the same finish as real cards (the black ink in particular will be too shiny when tilted around in the light), but they should look fine in sleeves.

If you're wanting to print your cards holo, things are quite a bit more difficult. First of all, you'll need to have the proper materials for your printer model. I use transparency film and adhere it to my foils with spray adhesive, but you can actually find self-adhesive transparencies and printable foil sheets that include film with them. Whichever you're using, follow the instructions included with them. If you're using regular transparency film like me, you'll have to flip your card horizontally so it will print backward.

Regardless of whether you want the foil to cover the whole card or not, you should be ready to print at this point. Go to File > Print. Far to the left, under Color Handling, choose "Photoshop Manages Colors" (this will give you colors closer to what you see on-screen), then hit print. Your printer settings should pop up after that, so select what type of material you're printing on (photo paper, transparency film, etc.) and tell it to print at Best or Maximum quality.

Part 4: Clipping (making select areas of a card holo)

There are a few techniques for making select areas of a card non-holo. While company printers use white ink for this part, most at home printers don't use white ink. The most convenient and accurate at-home method is white-out (or white paint), but this method doesn't work for ink-based printer transparency film (since it causes the ink to run/blur). The only way it will work is if you apply the white-out/paint on the opposite side of what the card was printed. Just paint over all the parts of the card you don't want to be holo.

As for me and my ink-based printer film, we use white paper as a substitute. On the computer, I make a clipping template by outlining the edge of the card and the parts I want holo with a thin grey line, making everything else white. I print this template low-quality to reserve ink. Using an X-Acto knife, I cut out the parts and, with clear spray adhesive, glue the paper to parts of the card I want to be non-holo. It should be noted that, unless you have a very steady hand and knack for working with small things, this method is only ideal for Neo-style Shining cards. It can also be used for Full-Arts, but don't expect the strokes of the text to be non-holo.

Part 5: Completion (the final steps)

Now all you have to do is mount your card and trim it. If you printed a non-holo card, cut it as close as possible to the bleed (don't worry about making it straight). Use an adhesive of your choice (glue stick, rubber cement, spray adhesive, etc.) on the front of an extra Common card. With the printed card face-down, try to center the Common card, also face-down, on the back of the printed card. You can hold it against a light to check if the edges line up how you want. Once you're satisfied, put it inside a thick book and let it dry. After 7-10 minutes, get it out and trim along the edge of the official card. You've finished your non-holo card! Put it in a sleeve or binder for safe-keeping.

If you printed on film, you'll want to do pretty much the same thing, but with a blank foil card (or holographic sheet) and you HAVE to use clear spray adhesive (other glues will make your foil look milky and less shiny). If you used a holographic sheet instead of a blank foil card, try cutting as closely and straight as possible to the edge of the border. Congrats! You now have your own custom holographic card. The film makes it a little glossier than normal cards, like it's laminated, but it's your baby, so treasure it. <3
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  #124    
Old August 29th, 2014 (12:50 PM). Edited July 15th, 2016 by icycatelf.
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UPDATE: Highly inspired by the old Zeo jumbos, here's My Neighbor Snorlax (based on Hayao Miyazaki's animated film, My Neighbor Totoro)!

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  #125    
Old August 31st, 2014 (5:11 AM).
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UPDATE: Printed some more cards.
Spoiler:









Sorry about the dark spots on the edges of Snorlax. The adhesive soaked into the paper too much. Sorry about the speckles on the others (my adhesive nozzle is sort'a clogged, so it sputters a bit). I'm still pretty happy with this batch, though.


I hate to say it, but I probably won't be faking anymore for a while. I'm wanting to take a break from Pokémon fan art and focus on my own characters. However, if I draw any that I think could be used on cards, I may still do that (Pokémon cards for Fakemon and Trainer cards for humanoid OCs).
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