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I've got HeartGold, but I tested this out myself and it works, as long as the GB Sounds isn't one of your two key items. The game doesn't play any music (even along Route 21) until you either get into a battle or stop surfing, but the sound effects still work.
I also tried this glitch out between Routes 19 and 20, Route 21 and Cinnabar and even Route 41 and Cianwood but the background music continued playing like normal, so it must be exclusive to that area. It's strange how the music will stop here, but it won't when trying it in similar places.
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