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Depends on a few things:
1) My mood when i'm playing. Sometimes i'm in the mood to listen to the BG music, other times I want to play while listening to my own stuff and then there are occassions when I just can't be bothered with any of it and have it on silent.
2) What i'm playing the games on. On my GB i'll sometimes have the sound on, but more often than not when i'm emulating I speed through battles (Especially when EV training), and the music becomes a high-pitched looped noise which is very annoying so I leave the sound muted.
3) What time it is. Obviously no music or sound late at night or very early in the morning if I can't be bothered to get my earphones lol.
I almost always have it turned off and usually have some Green Day playing in the background. So far, there is only one exception, the Kanto Safari Zone. Love it.
Sometimes I listen to the music (usually if it's an important battle with unique music), but it depends on mood. Sometimes I turn down the volume, and sometimes I just play random songs on my iPod.
Most of the time I do, but If im battling someone and I start to lose or my pokemon gets confused I turn the volume off because it will just make me more frustrated.