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Replacing my Laptops HDD with a SSD?

countryemo

Kicking against the earth!
  • 2,367
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    15
    Years
    I'm thinking about maybe getting a SSD (Samsung E50 Pro or if I shall remain cheap the E40 Evo just so I can retain more space).

    How should I go about this though? I kinda know how to install it, atleast re-putting in the HDD in the secondary slot. But I heard something about updating bios, and I don't really know anything about getting windows and my stuff on there.

    I know my laptop fits 2.5" drives, and these both are, I believe.
     
    You could attempt to clone your existing install (using something like Acronis) to the SSD and then just swap it but I wouldn't recommend this route. A fresh install is the better, albeit more complicated and time consuming, method.

    I generally install the OS to the SSD and then move the Users and ProgramData folders onto the HDD but this isn't strictly necessary if you have a large SSD (and not doing so simplifies the install process as well). That being said, if you'd like to try this method, here are instructions for doing so on Windows 7 and 8:

    Windows 7
    Windows 8

    I'd be happy to elaborate if necessary but otherwise, good luck! The upgrade is definitely worth it. It's one of the most significant changes you can make in terms of noticeable differences when you're done.
     
    I believe they even have laptop kits for the 840 EVO.

    Don't bother with the 850 Pro for now; you really don't need it, and TLC write cycles should be still in the absurd territory in practice, so long as you get something 250 GB or larger.

    One more thing: after you clone the drive using the provided software by Samsung (it really is as simple as put DVD in, run Setup, migrate data if you don't have too much data, shut down, and swap drives), check for firmware updates using Samsung Magician. Seeing as you're buying the drive this late, it's likely that the drive already came with the latest firmware that fixes an issue with read speeds on old data. If not, the software will take care of that for you.

    Aaaand one more thing: turn on RAPID. You're on a laptop with a battery, right? (Keep it connected.) 5.4 GB/s is nothing to scoff at!

    Full disclosure: I have a 250GB Samsung 840 EVO, and I love it.
     
    One more thing: after you clone the drive using the provided software by Samsung

    Oh, sweet! I didn't realize Samsung provided software do to this. I know Western Digital does but it's good to see others are as well. Definitely give the included software a shot then. You may still want to consider moving at least your Users folder over to your mechanical drive though, depending on the size of the SSD you're going with. This can be done without a full reinstall via junctions to move the entire folder or by simply going into each library's properties window and choosing an alternate location for individual library folders.
     
    On the hardware side, it's as simple as grounding yourself, popping open your laptop cover, doing a switcharoo, and calling it a day. Unless you have a spare copy of Windows or use Linux, though, software's a little more complex. If you have a live OS with a capable enough Linux distro (#! works great) what you want to do is boot in as root, mount two drives (with one in an enclosure or something), and use Disk Destroyer ("dd") to copy the entirety of the drives over as block devices.

    If that doesn't make any sense to you and sounds foreign, the others above could probably help you a lot more. ;)
     
    I believe they even have laptop kits for the 840 EVO.

    Don't bother with the 850 Pro for now; you really don't need it, and TLC write cycles should be still in the absurd territory in practice, so long as you get something 250 GB or larger.

    One more thing: after you clone the drive using the provided software by Samsung (it really is as simple as put DVD in, run Setup, migrate data if you don't have too much data, shut down, and swap drives), check for firmware updates using Samsung Magician. Seeing as you're buying the drive this late, it's likely that the drive already came with the latest firmware that fixes an issue with read speeds on old data. If not, the software will take care of that for you.

    Aaaand one more thing: turn on RAPID. You're on a laptop with a battery, right? (Keep it connected.) 5.4 GB/s is nothing to scoff at!

    Full disclosure: I have a 250GB Samsung 840 EVO, and I love it.

    I was mainly looking at the 850 because I am more of a fan of the AC franchise, but I guess thats only a $30 difference, and probably the price in the next Steam Summer sale or later, I can wait a while, still playing 3/4.

    So why do you say I don't need it specifically? I know either way its a improvement, a big one at that. And what does the laptop kit enable? I see it on Samsungs page, at least under UK, but dosen't say what it is. Just shows the SSD. So there is a way to connect the SSD to the laptop to move data before installing it?

    Last note, what do you mean by keep it connected? Keep the battery connected?

    You could attempt to clone your existing install (using something like Acronis) to the SSD and then just swap it but I wouldn't recommend this route. A fresh install is the better, albeit more complicated and time consuming, method.

    I generally install the OS to the SSD and then move the Users and ProgramData folders onto the HDD but this isn't strictly necessary if you have a large SSD (and not doing so simplifies the install process as well).

    I'd be happy to elaborate if necessary but otherwise, good luck! The upgrade is definitely worth it. It's one of the most significant changes you can make in terms of noticeable differences when you're done.

    Hmm hear fresh install is better. How much more complicated is it? Do I loose anything? I think I might prefer keeping my install if I can without too many risk.

    Whats the purpose of doing that? Just wondering? It will be a 256gb is what I'm betting on, so I think thats enough space.

    On the hardware side, it's as simple as grounding yourself, popping open your laptop cover, doing a switcharoo, and calling it a day. Unless you have a spare copy of Windows or use Linux, though, software's a little more complex. If you have a live OS with a capable enough Linux distro (#! works great) what you want to do is boot in as root, mount two drives (with one in an enclosure or something), and use Disk Destroyer ("dd") to copy the entirety of the drives over as block devices.

    If that doesn't make any sense to you and sounds foreign, the others above could probably help you a lot more. ;)
    Yeah your not making much sense. :P At least after the first sentence. I thought about Linux a little bit, maybe Ubuntu or the new Quantum OS. But I think I'll stick for Windows now, maybe atleast VMWare or dual boot in the future.
     
    I was mainly looking at the 850 because I am more of a fan of the AC franchise, but I guess thats only a $30 difference, and probably the price in the next Steam Summer sale or later, I can wait a while, still playing 3/4.

    So why do you say I don't need it specifically? I know either way its a improvement, a big one at that. And what does the laptop kit enable? I see it on Samsungs page, at least under UK, but dosen't say what it is. Just shows the SSD. So there is a way to connect the SSD to the laptop to move data before installing it?

    Last note, what do you mean by keep it connected? Keep the battery connected?



    Hmm hear fresh install is better. How much more complicated is it? Do I loose anything? I think I might prefer keeping my install if I can without too many risk.

    Whats the purpose of doing that? Just wondering? It will be a 256gb is what I'm betting on, so I think thats enough space.


    Yeah your not making much sense. :P At least after the first sentence. I thought about Linux a little bit, maybe Ubuntu or the new Quantum OS. But I think I'll stick for Windows now, maybe atleast VMWare or dual boot in the future.

    From my standpoint I'm more than a little grossed out by the Samsung software mentioned above, as I have little doubt it doesn't ship with a nasty and needless EULA, and given it's purpose would be more than apt for data collection (watch out for how large the executive is). DD ships with #!, and if you're icked-out by the above then I could tell you how to copy your drives without risking losing your data.

    All you need to do it is a flash drive, the #! install image, Rufus (a USB imager), your two disks (old HDD and your new SSD), and of course a drive enclosure unless you have a spare SATA port in your laptop (doubtful, even larger ones with CD drives have the optical on eSATA).

    Below I ended up writing a start-to-finish how-to on how to do what I was describing, requiring only basic computer knowledge and an open mind. Not originally what I intended, but if you want to save a bit of time (it looks longer than it is, trust me), I do insist you take this route if you're game.


    The first thing you want to do is boot up your computer and start Rufus. In Rufus, you want to change the dropdown box to ISO Image and select the #! ISO file. If it isn't already set to it, change the partition scheme to the one that says "MBR scheme for BIOS computers", check Quick Format because why waste time, and hit start.

    Once it's finished imaging the flash drive, power off your computer, plug in your freshly imaged USB stick (the BIOS should support booting via USB 3.0 if they're on your computer, so don't worry about that), and during the boot sequence you need to hit your boot selection key. Depending on your BIOS type it could be a number of keys, but generally if you try Delete, Esc, Insert, and all of your F-keys (1 through 12) one of those is bound to work. If you end up having to trial and error which one it is, one of those keys may put you into your BIOS setup, which you don't need and should just reboot out of and continue. Once you have your boot selection menu up, select your USB install media (should be the only one there), and watch Linux boot. After it's done, on the menu that pops up select "Live Session" with the keyboard. #! will start up, and once it's done you can plug in your 2.5" disk enclosure into another USB port and wait for it to automatically mount the drive.

    After that, you're going to want to right-click on the desktop for the applications menu, go down to the "System" submenu, and click on "gparted". Gparted is a Linux-based partition manager, but we won't be doing any copying or anything with it. Don't worry if you accidentally click something, as it asks for a commit to write changes before it does anything. In Gparted, there should be a dropdown menu in the top right corner, that should say something like /dev/sda or similar. Open that up and there should be two others underneath it - one of them is your old HDD and one of them is your new SSD. To find out which one is your old one, look at the information displayed in the main area and the one that says "boot" in the far right corner will be your Windows partition. Read the /dev/sdx parts of each one and remember which is which, as you'll need them when we get into DD. Before we exit out of Gparted you're going to want to right-click on each partition on the drives and click Unmount, which will prevent conflicts with Thunar or other processes that we shouldn't need to worry about. Important: Do not note the ones with numbers at the end of them - those are the partitions and will not copy the partition tables and bootloaders and stuff you need for a true clone, and will break the process of copying your drives!

    Now that you've got those two names, you'll want to exit out of Gparted, open up your applications menu again, and select "Run Program" from the very top. In the box that pops up you want to type gksu terminator verbatim and hit enter - what this does is it opens up a shell as root so we don't have to worry about privilege errors and sudos and the like. Now that you're in the command line, this is the most critical part of the process: at the terminal, with <old drive> and <new drive> representing those /dev/... phrases you noted earlier (should look something like /dev/sdb or /dev/sdc, type
    dd if=<old drive> of=<new drive> bs=4096; sync
    and hit enter. Now it is copying your drive's data over. DD won't show progress bars or anything, but it will let you know when it's done and could take anywhere from a few minutes to a few hours depending on how strong your processor is. Also, don't fret if you accidentally cancel it or mess up the process in any way - if you stop the process mid-copy all you have to do is execute the DD command over again same as before (your old drive, OS, files and such will not be lost).

    Once DD says it's done, it should spit out some block information and some other junk that you can ignore, and at this point you can now safely shut down your PC, switch out the hard drives putting the SSD into the internal slot, and you're done! The end result should be the exact same computer you had before but with SSD speeds. I hope I helped :)
     
    My advice? Don't bother with all that. Just do it the simple, easy way.

    The 850 is if you really need the performance or endurance, which is very unlikely to be an issue throughout the entire lifetime of the product. Best to not worry too much about it - even 250 TB is more than good enough for a 250 GB drive, let alone 750 TB - the practical reliable limit. As SSD sizes increase, so do the total amount of writes.

    (Nasty EULAs? Don't worry too much about things like that when it comes to this context. It doesn't really have one. Most sane EULAs don't, and this is one of them.)
     
    My advice? Don't bother with all that. Just do it the simple, easy way.

    The 850 is if you really need the performance or endurance, which is very unlikely to be an issue throughout the entire lifetime of the product. Best to not worry too much about it - even 250 TB is more than good enough for a 250 GB drive, let alone 750 TB - the practical reliable limit. As SSD sizes increase, so do the total amount of writes.

    (Nasty EULAs? Don't worry too much about things like that when it comes to this context. It doesn't really have one. Most sane EULAs don't, and this is one of them.)

    Hehe, "sane EULA" sounds like an oxymoron. It's well worth a try not just for that, though. It's also an oppurtunity to learn, which knowing him I don't think he'd be against given how broken down and friendly it is. :)
     
    Hehe, "sane EULA" sounds like an oxymoron. It's well worth a try not just for that, though. It's also an oppurtunity to learn, which knowing him I don't think he'd be against. :)

    Some things are best left simple.

    Hopefully you have decided on a drive by now, huh? Unless you're still waiting for some kind of deal.

    Forgot to mention that the laptop kit is basically the SSD with a USB converter. If you cannot get one, or the kit not available for your size, get a separate USB-to-SATA adapter. (You can use the drives naked.)
     
    Some things are best left simple.

    Hopefully you have decided on a drive by now, huh? Unless you're still waiting for some kind of deal.

    Forgot to mention that the laptop kit is basically the SSD with a USB converter. If you cannot get one, or the kit not available for your size, get a separate USB-to-SATA adapter. (You can use the drives naked.)
    I dunno about that…

    You really should go with the 850, though. Given it's only a bit more and also given the theoretical leg up it has on the 840s, it will be well worth it in years to come. Investments should never be shorted, I don't think.
     
    I dunno about that…

    You really should go with the 850, though. Given it's only a bit more and also given the theoretical leg up it has on the 840s, it will be well worth it in years to come. Investments should never be shorted, I don't think.

    A bit more? Make that SIGNIFICANTLY more. The 850 Pro is an extremely high-end drive and serves completely different markets. For everyday computing, it is likely that nobody will notice. At this level of performance, we'd be picking apart drives by mere milliseconds or megabytes.
     
    A bit more? Make that SIGNIFICANTLY more. The 850 Pro is an extremely high-end drive and serves completely different markets. For everyday computing, it is likely that nobody will notice. At this level of performance, we'd be picking apart drives by mere milliseconds or megabytes.

    You're right, the difference now is null. But the IT industry is a rapidly changing one; past records show that the 850 Pro will be far outdated in a mere decade. I think it's a really swell long-term investment.

    By the way, as far as I can tell the 850 Pro is for enthusiasts, but it's by no means a datacenter drive. In every way it's a surefire consumer-grade SSD.
     
    You're right, the difference now is null. But the IT industry is a rapidly changing one; past records show that the 850 Pro will be far outdated in a mere decade. I think it's a really swell long-term investment.

    By the way, as far as I can tell the 850 Pro is for enthusiasts, but it's by no means a datacenter drive. In every way it's a surefire consumer-grade SSD.

    Mainstream consumer-grade SSD and enthusiast consumer-grade SSD. (I'm probably being nitpicky at this point.) Barely any practical performance difference.

    I'll admit, there IS a notable endurance and warranty difference, but it is also likely that by the time the three-year warranty on the 840 EVO is up, the drives involved in this comparison are out of date by several generations. Don't think too much about it.

    Personally? Get what you want. If you need more capacity for the price, or just want to shave off price if you already are able to afford the largest capacity anyway, get the 840 EVO. It's still really fast, seeing as it's an SSD, and it's also extremely spacious. The EVO is one of these "low-end" consumer SSDs that can have extremely good performance at 250 GB; by the time you hit 500 GB, most, if not all bottlenecks are gone. (SSD performance goes up along with capacity up to a certain point, too.) If you want absolute endurance and warranty, the 850 Pro is your best bet.

    There's no "right" answer here, really, if there is no hard budget limit.
     
    Mainstream consumer-grade SSD and enthusiast consumer-grade SSD. (I'm probably being nitpicky at this point.) Barely any practical performance difference.
    In the future those differences are a lot more critical. Not everyone has the excess to put forth to consistently updated hardware, and more than a few appreciate longevity out of things that aren't disposable.

    I'll admit, there IS a notable endurance and warranty difference, but it is also likely that by the time the three-year warranty on the 840 EVO is up, the drives involved in this comparison are out of date by several generations. Don't think too much about it.
    That's what I was getting at earlier, as well. The computer hardware industry is hyperexpanding because of how new and large its implications on society are, and it's smart to plan ahead. Warranties, though, I really don't think are something worth worrying over - like you said they last a number of years, and most would think more to replace any piece of hardware that breaks after that time than collect on a warranty, and regardless of what happens manufacturers can't undo physical damage that results in data loss.

    Personally? Get what you want. If you need more capacity for the price, or just want to shave off price if you already are able to afford the largest capacity anyway, get the 840 EVO. It's still really fast, seeing as it's an SSD, and it's also extremely spacious. The EVO is one of these "low-end" consumer SSDs that can have extremely good performance at 250 GB; by the time you hit 500 GB, most, if not all bottlenecks are gone. (SSD performance goes up along with capacity up to a certain point, too.) If you want absolute endurance and warranty, the 850 Pro is your best bet.

    There's no "right" answer here, really, if there is no hard budget limit.
    This is really the best conclusion I can come up with. My suggestion is to go for the long haul with any durable equipment, but honestly it's minor the differences between the 840 Pro and the 850 Pro.
     
    Mmm hmm.

    Now, countryemo, how much space do you have taken up on your system drive?
     
    Mmm hmm.

    Now, countryemo, how much space do you have taken up on your system drive?

    Right now, 571 or so Gigabits. I have a few Unnecessary files I need to through, a whole lot really, duplicate pictures and files. I have 100 GB free atm due to deleting some steam games I don't really play games on my laptop really anymore.

    As for previous replies, it is a bit more, $30? or so. Unless thats only a seasonal sale. But saving money is good, I should keep it low. I do Photoshop on my laptop, maybe some dreamweaver later on and video editing. But at least Photoshop still acts good after it opens. Don't think the drive really helps besides opening saving.
     
    Right now, 571 or so Gigabits. I have a few Unnecessary files I need to through, a whole lot really, duplicate pictures and files. I have 100 GB free atm due to deleting some steam games I don't really play games on my laptop really anymore.

    As for previous replies, it is a bit more, $30? or so. Unless thats only a seasonal sale. But saving money is good, I should keep it low. I do Photoshop on my laptop, maybe some dreamweaver later on and video editing. But at least Photoshop still acts good after it opens. Don't think the drive really helps besides opening saving.

    I'm going to assume that you mean gigabytes.

    Are you comparing 1 TB drives? If yes, go for the 850 PRO. I envy your prices, really. The Pro commands a significant price premium over here.
     
    Yes. And sorry to hear that. No, just 256GB. You are probably right that the 840 will probably be enough.

    I don't know, though. $30 isn't too much in the grand scheme of things when you're comparing the 840 EVO to the 850 PRO...unless it's actually a 840 PRO.

    Might as well as pay the $30 difference and get something is guaranteed to last longer, no?
     
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