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turn it off and on again

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I'm really considering getting a desktop for my office space now, just so that I don't have to constantly dock and undock my laptop while at home.

I've been considering a Mac Mini (probably the $699 model), but I dunno how those could handle Steam games at all.

What are the specs? Because BootCamp is a thing that should allow you to run Windows on that, iirc.

It'd also be worth checking into whether you'd actually need a Windows install to run any of your games as well.
 
What are the specs? Because BootCamp is a thing that should allow you to run Windows on that, iirc.

It'd also be worth checking into whether you'd actually need a Windows install to run any of your games as well.
The $699 model has a dual-core i7 that's at 2.6 GHz (which is faster than my laptop, and my laptop can run many Steam games fine). If I were to get a Mac Mini, I most definitely intend on using BootCamp with it. 8)
 
So after Twiggy froofy lessons, heh. I tune up the clocks to test the benchmarks.

So here are list of Results,

Sky Dive
Sky Dive Overclocked
Fire Strike
Fire Strike Overclocked

The temperature is well controlled for 52 to 56 degrees for CPU
66 to 70 for GPU

The clocks for GPU: 1063Mhz Core Clock, 3265Mhz For Memory Clock

There is a very minor glitch during Sky Dive Overclock so I tuned down a little.
 
So after Twiggy froofy lessons, heh. I tune up the clocks to test the benchmarks.

So here are list of Results,

Sky Dive
Sky Dive Overclocked
Fire Strike
Fire Strike Overclocked

The temperature is well controlled for 52 to 56 degrees for CPU
66 to 70 for GPU

The clocks for GPU: 1063Mhz Core Clock, 3265Mhz For Memory Clock

There is a very minor glitch during Sky Dive Overclock so I tuned down a little.

MSI seems to have cooling gotten down right, even if it's a "budget" gaming laptop. These CPU and GPU temps are to be envied upon... I wish my laptop was as cool playing games.

That's desktop-grade temps...
 
I would discover more about this new Windows 10. Btw these laptop speakers are badass though.

Have fun with it!

Oh, and by the way, I suggest running Unigine Heaven at Ultra settings, Extreme tessellation, at 0xAA, 1920x1080 fullscreen for at least three loops. It's very good at teasing out any potential instability.
 
1920x1080 is bae resolution, just sayin
Call me stupid, but I really don't see the need of having anything higher than that for a computer monitor. For the distance you're going to be from it, any higher resolution just seems like an unnecessary strain on system resources - not to mention making everything too small to see clearly without some sort of scaling (a la Retina).

If I were to get a new monitor and want to upgrade from a 1080p 60hz, I'd rather stick with 1080p and get a 144hz monitor than go for 1440p or 4k.
 
Call me stupid, but I really don't see the need of having anything higher than that for a computer monitor. For the distance you're going to be from it, any higher resolution just seems like an unnecessary strain on system resources - not to mention making everything too small to see clearly without some sort of scaling (a la Retina).

If I were to get a new monitor and want to upgrade from a 1080p 60hz, I'd rather stick with 1080p and get a 144hz monitor than go for 1440p or 4k.

Heh. I don't find a point to higher resolution monitors, too. Personally I find the increased detail to be dwarfed by GPU power needed to power it well (and I'm not a fan of upscaling in games).

Would be nice if there existed cheap 1080p variable-sync monitors...

I need to figure out clocking on my laptop. Perhaps I can get a bit more performance out of GTA V. I'm running it close to High settings and am getting roughly 35 to 40 FPS. I tried using MSI Afterburner but it was confusing and I couldn't tweak the fan speed manually.

Also not to mention that Afterburner took over the preset button for Dragon Gaming Centre. I wonder if there is a registry value I can adjust to prevent that.

It's probably not a good idea to try to tweak the fan speeds. Usually the automatic setting will make the fans go at max if thermal throttling is imminent. By default,

Afterburner's values are offset-based for clock speeds, so 0 means no change. Use positive values to add speeds, and negative values to subtract from it. GDDR5 memory tends to overclock much better than the GPU chip accompanying it. Try overclocking the GPU chip in 10 MHz increments (Core base/boost, depending on what your GPU exposes), and memory in an increment depending on the app in use.

Why? Different GPU overclocking utilities treat the memory clock speed in a different manner. 1 memory MHz in Afterburner is like 2 memory MHz in Asus GPU Tweak, another GPU overclocking utility. You'll probably know exactly what's going on by comparing the reported number in the GPU overclocking utility to the official memory specification of the GPU in MT/s. As a rule, in the MT/s rule, increment by 50 MHz per step (and this is what you do with Asus GPU Tweak); since Afterburner displays it as (MT/s / 2) MHz, you want to increase it by 25 MHz per step in Afterburner. You'll figure it out, anyway. Note that the real clock speed is (MT/s / 4) MHz for GDDR5 memory. Overclock one thing at a time until you find its limit, remember it, then reset clocks and overclock the other thing, and then finally put them together and see if you need to reduce memory overclocks further. Prioritize core clocks over memory.

I don't recommend overvolting laptop chips. The cooling probably can't handle it, and most Maxwell and Kepler chips can overclock fairly well (about at least 10%) before errors or crashes start to rear their heads without overvolting. Desktop video cards with non-reference coolers, or for the matter, NVIDIA's reference coolers can take overvolting well, though, assuming your card isn't voltage-locked. Though it's probably not a very good idea to try to run them at a significantly elevated voltage for extended periods of time, due to heat and silicon life concerns. I would feel iffy if I threw in more than 100 mV additional voltage, though it's likely your video card will at least live through the warranty period up to about 1.4V (1400mV, or would be about +200 mV for a 1.2V/1200mV card.) As a rule, check the temps, check the stability, and use everything you have there to test it!

I wouldn't know anything about the registry setting. Hmm...

Speaking of which, I really need to get my Asus G56JR's battery replaced as soon as possible. I think I'll get it and my desktop motherboard out to be serviced and purchase a battery for the former. It's now at 10% of its original capacity, and the laptop has been getting unusually warm during use, even. Oh, and my desktop motherboard's channel A RAM slots are still fried.
 
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I guess you cant put up the voltage since it has no option in my afterburner. But it runs stable with max 72 Gpu and 69 CPU for one hour gaming. Not quite mention after gaming the laptop heats up Lel even though the reading for both devices are 40 to 45 but it still not that comfortable for my palms.

In addition, the laptop screen is quite comfort for my eyes compare to the old Samsung 4:3 monitor.
 
Feels so weird to use my laptop as a desktop. I'm going to remove my desktop's motherboard to prepare it for servicing, and since the laptop's going to be usable anyhow... Might as well as use the laptop for the time being.

Good thing the laptop is pretty powerful on its own. You won't even noticed that it's running off a laptop once you wire everything input and output-related to the laptop. The only concession is probably not being able to use the printer...
 
Some how hardisk that is place on the left palm rest is quite very hot and sometimes while gaming it is quite uncomfortable to put on it.

The temperature is 45 min 54 max.

Storage devices tend to run a bit hot, especially HDDs, and especially when the rest of the system is putting out a lot of heat. 54C isn't dangerous for a storage device, though it's a bit warm.

At least, the important thing is the CPU and GPU temps, no? They don't even exceed 70C if I remember correctly.
 
So 2016 is going to be the year of the Linux desktop... in a completely unexpected way. Funny, huh?
 
So 2016 is going to be the year of the Linux desktop... in a completely unexpected way.
Yes but only for Ubuntu for now, looks like Microsoft followed the old proverb "If you can't beat them, join them". Enabling running Ubuntu in Windows 10 can help developers develop software that work natively in both Windows and Ubuntu so we might see Ubuntu versions of software that was previously available only for Windows and it might make switching to Ubuntu easier in the future.
 
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The ASRock B85M-HDS is surprisingly nice all things considered. Other than the lacklustre audio (I can hear the difference between it and my usual), the fact that a video card would squish the HD Audio front panel cables (but not dangerously so), and complete lack of DC fan control (hello, full speed and the resulting noise), it does everything well, without much fuss, after I reinstalled Windows to make sure the system part is in a fresh state.

Perhaps in the future I'll opt for cheaper motherboards, so long as their layout makes sense and has good enough audio. But for now, I think I got a great "backup" motherboard for when I need it for something.
 
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That's always fun. I read a thing where a guy got a Phillips TV, and he couldn't root it, the stock settings app was horribly nerfed (You couldn't sideload apps, Unknown Sources was disabled), and it was stuck at 720p. I'd love to try rooting such TV, but I'd have to get it first.
Is the TV capable of 1920x1080 though?

Also, is there a way to root without losing data? I've seen tutorials that say I'd need to unlock my bootloader, yet I've rooted Samsung devices in the past without losing data.
 
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